How To Move a Greenhouse to a New Home

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Most people who move have to pack and transport belongings and memories from just their homes. But if you have a greenhouse on your property, you need to decide what to do with a whole other structure.

Should you move your greenhouse with you, or should you build a new one? Can you even move a greenhouse to begin with?

Yes, you can move it, and there are many reasons why that might be a better option than building a new one from scratch. It can save you time and money, it’s more sustainable, and it preserves the sentimental value of your greenhouse.

Read on for the lowdown on all things greenhouse, from the supplies you need when taking it down to the permits you need at its final destination.


Decide If Your Greenhouse Can Be Moved

Not all greenhouses can (or should) be moved. Moving yours depends on several factors, including its age, the material it’s made from, and its size. A polycarbonate greenhouse typically lasts 10 to 20 years. If yours is at the upper end of this age range, you may be better off replacing it, especially if it’s already worn or damaged. The older a greenhouse gets, the more vulnerable it becomes, and you certainly don’t want yours collapsing on your precious plants.

 

“Your local zoning department will issue this permit that regulates how many accessory buildings, such as greenhouses or conservatories…you can build and where on the property you can build them.”

 

Size matters, too. Obviously, a smaller greenhouse is typically easier to move than a larger one, and it may also be cheaper to relocate. However, buying an entirely new greenhouse, regardless of the size, might be more affordable than transporting the old one. Compare the costs of moving vs. replacing before making a decision.

Don’t forget to check zoning permit laws in your new area! Make sure greenhouses are allowed at your new property and that yours doesn’t exceed any size restrictions.


Prepare the Greenhouse for Moving

Collect the Tools and Supplies You’ll Need

a man carries some of the tools needed to move a greenhouse, like a small spade and bucket, in a wooden box.

There are numerous parts to a greenhouse, and you’ll need various tools to carefully take them apart and pack them for your move. Here’s a checklist of the basic items you need:

For the greenhouse structure

  • Pair of pliers
  • Flat and crosshead screwdrivers
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Short ladder to reach the roof
  • Containers to gather brackets, clips, nuts, and bolts
  • Masking tape
  • Marker

For the plants

  • Hand shovel
  • Burlap bags, plant pots, buckets, or trash bags
  • Extra potting soil

Personal protective equipment

  • Thick gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Sturdy shoes or boots

Packaging materials

  • Bubble wrap, foam padding, and foam corners to safeguard fragile components, especially glass panes
  • Rope to secure them

Document What Your Greenhouse Structure Looks Like

Before removing anything, make detailed notes about your greenhouse to make reassembling it easier. You can start by drawing a rough sketch of the floor plan that maps out where each plant goes, or taking several pictures of the interior.

Then, take photos of the general shape of the greenhouse from different angles to document what the final structure looks like. Zoom in and photograph the joints so you know where the nuts and bolts fit together.

Clear Out Everything From Inside

Start with items that are easy to remove and work your way to heftier things. Remove any small, unsecured items like tools, heaters, and fertilizer bags. Next, move out the heavier mobile items like pots, shelves, and benches. Finally, remove secured items like lighting and shades.

Once you have the accessories out of the way, it’s time to focus on the plants.

Remove and Prep Your Plants for Moving

a gardener transplants a fern into a pot so it's ready to move from a greenhouse

Changing a plant’s environment — even temporarily during transport — can cause distress. To make the journey easier on them, trim dying or surplus stems from any plants that need it before you dig them up.

When digging up plants, take special care not to damage the roots — use a hand shovel to dig a ring around the plant’s main stem, following the roots’ position in the drip line. That’s the outer edge of a plant’s foliage where water naturally drips down to the soil. Make sure you keep the soil around the roots intact.

Once removed, place the plant in a bucket, plant pot, or burlap bag for transport. You can then place the relocated plant in a trash bag so that loose soil doesn’t spill all over your vehicle.

To learn more about how to move your plants safely, including watering and replanting recommendations, check out our guide for how to move your garden.


How to Dismantle a Greenhouse

an older man and woman work on removing the glass from the side of a greenhouse

Start With the Roof and Work Your Way Down

You’ve cleared out the movable items, and now it’s time for the heavy lifting. It’s possible to do this yourself, but it’s not the best idea. Having someone to hand off panes to will make your job much easier and safer.

  • First, remove the glass or polycarbonate panes from the roof and then tackle one wall at a time. As you remove the panes, use masking tape and a marker to label where they came from — North, South, East, or West walls, and roof.
  • Clips, brackets, nuts, and bolts are easy to lose, so put them in a bucket or plastic bag immediately.
  • Clear moss off any panes before taking them out. The last thing you want is to lose your grip and drop them! You can scrape off dead moss using your screwdriver or a plastic spatula. Fresh moss needs to be sprayed with moss killer first and scraped off after 15 minutes. If you’d rather not use harsh chemicals, try a dish soap and warm water mix instead, although it might take longer to work.
  • Next, take the door off its hinges (or brackets, if it’s a sliding door) and then move on to the roof vents.
  • When you’re left with just the greenhouse frame, try to keep as much of it intact as you can. Instead of detaching each beam, keep each wall or roof frame in one piece if your greenhouse is small enough to do so. This will make reassembling it easier at your new home. Don’t forget to use masking tape and mark each frame too!

Protect and Pack the Different Components for Transport

It’s not just bumps on the road that can break glass during transport — prolonged vibrations between panes of glass can also damage them if there’s direct contact. You can place bubble wrap or foam padding between the glass sheets and use foam on the corners to protect them.

 

“Your local extension office is an excellent resource to help with all things gardening, including answering your burning questions about specific soil, drainage, weeds, and landscaping.”

 

ou could add an extra layer of protection and wrap each pane and padding item with packing paper. Label each one with ‘Fragile – Glass’ to prepare for loading onto the truck.

Polycarbonate, on the other hand, is 250 times stronger than glass, so you don’t have to worry about breakage en route. You can place thinner sheets of packing paper between polycarbonate panes to shield them from scratches.

The frame is also less prone to breakage. Use the bubble wrap or foam padding on the corners of your frames to protect other items they might come into contact with on the journey.


How to Transport a Greenhouse

a man and a woman check plants they've unloaded from a rented moving van

Consider Hiring Professional Movers

Here’s the not-so-great news — most moving companies won’t transport potted plants with soil. They’re delicate and messy, and if you’re moving interstate, there are multiple state laws about transporting plants to take into account. You can always ask, but be prepared to make your own arrangements. To learn your options, check out our blog post about how to move your plants long-distance.

But the actual components of your conservatory? Those are fair game! You can hire professional movers to transport the panes and frames. They’ll have the equipment you need to secure these parts in the truck and transport them safely.

Safely Load and Secure Greenhouse Parts

You’ve already packed your greenhouse glass (or polycarbonate) panes safely. Now it’s time to load them onto the moving truck.

Stack them vertically or diagonally in the truck so that each pane is only bearing its own weight. Use rope to secure the panes to the truck so they don’t shift or bounce during transport. Secure the frames to the truck as well to avoid them tipping over and breaking the glass.

Keep Road Regulations in Mind and Plan Your Route

If you’re bringing any plants with you in your car or rental truck, you’ll need to carefully map out your route before you hit the road to ensure you’re allowed to take them through each state you’ll be driving through.

Check for issues in each state you pass through on the Department of Agriculture and National Plant Board websites. If you have any prohibited plants that are allowed at your final destination, you’ll either have to go around that state or ship those plants by mail through UPS, USPS, or FedEx. Check the guidelines for these companies before you pack up the plant and send it on its way.


Set Up Your Greenhouse at Your New Home

a greenhouse being built

Find a Spot With Ideal Sunlight Exposure

If it’s possible, observe the sun’s movement across your garden throughout the day to find a spot that gets plenty of sunlight for a long time. Make sure you place your greenhouse a safe distance away from the shade of tall trees — not only do they block direct sunlight, their branches pose a risk to the glass if they fall on the structure.

Check Local Climate and Weather

Unless you’re moving a short distance, you might have questions about which plants will survive the move with you. The answer lies in their hardiness, or what cold weather and low temperatures they can withstand. This isn’t an abstract concept — the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map can help you figure out whether your plants will thrive in their new environment.

Your plant tags should state their hardiness zones. If you don’t still have the tags, you can look up your zone by zip code to find plants that will survive there.

And the plants that don’t make the cut? You’ll have to find someone to take them. Here are some ways to make sure the plants you can’t bring with you find a new home:

Consider Soil and Drainage Options

a raised bed greenhouse

You can grow your plants directly in the ground by using pots or raised plant beds, or a combination of the two.

You can get soil for raised beds at your nearest hardware store, but for plants that will grow directly in the ground, the soil in your garden will need to be suitable for them to flourish. Your local extension office is an excellent resource to help with all things gardening, including answering your burning questions about specific soil, drainage, weeds, and landscaping. Ask them about soil testing to discover your garden soil’s nutrient levels and how acidic it is.

Your greenhouse needs to be on level ground to avoid drainage problems like water pooling after watering your yard or a heavy rain. If the ideal spot is on uneven ground, you’ll have to level the land before you build.

Comply With Legal and Regulatory Requirements

Unfortunately, there’s no one-size-fits-all checklist as to what regulations, permits, and codes might apply to building a greenhouse at your new home. These vary from state to state, and you’ll need to check with the local authorities in your area for what’s applicable to you.

  • Zoning permit: Your local zoning department will issue this permit that regulates how many accessory buildings, such as greenhouses or conservatories, storage sheds, swimming pools, gazebos, detached garages, etc. you can build and where on the property you can build them.
  • Building permit: Your local building department will issue this permit to ensure your greenhouse complies with safety standards. It assesses the structural integrity of your greenhouse and how it looks, including its size and height.

You should also check if your Homeowners Association has any specific rules or requirements for greenhouses and comply with those. You don’t want to get into a scuffle with your new neighbors!

 

“Changing a plant’s environment — even temporarily during transport — can cause distress. To make the journey easier on them, trim dying or surplus stems from any plants that need it before you dig them up.”

 

Lastly, don’t forget about the Environmental Protection Agency. You don’t need a permit from them, but keep in mind the EPA’s best practices to prevent pollution.

  • Store fuel, wood waste, fertilizer, and pesticides contained and far away from streams, springs, creeks, lakes, ponds, etc. on your property.
  • Design your greenhouse to work well with efficient watering and drip irrigation systems. If you can, separate and disinfect wash water or wastewater for reuse.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Moving a Greenhouse

Never rush the process of prepping a greenhouse for relocation. It leads to headaches, stress, broken pieces, and basically nothing good. Let’s discuss some of the most common mistakes people make so you can avoid them and save yourself the hassle.

  • Not labeling parts: Label all the greenhouse parts. Otherwise, you could spend countless hours trying to figure out where everything is supposed to go. Consider writing on painter’s tape with a permanent marker. It’s highly visible and the tape won’t leave behind a sticky residue.
  • Rushing disassembly or reassembly: Not many people enjoy either process, but that doesn’t mean you should speed through disassembling or reassembling your greenhouse to get it over with. Rushing could lead to a host of problems, from missing parts to broken pieces.
  • Forgetting to prep the new location: There’s a lot that needs to be done, including leveling the soil. Forgetting to do this before your greenhouse arrives could result in a lot of frustration. It can also lengthen the time your plants are unprotected.
  • Breaking panels during transport: You can’t be too careful when packing the panels. Give them plenty of cushion and protection so they don’t shatter en route. Packing materials like thick foam, clean cardboard, bubble wrap, and packing tape can help give the panels the protection they need.
  • Losing hardware: Keep all the pieces together in one place, like a covered plastic bin, so you don’t lose them and they stay protected. Don’t forget to label the container, too.

FAQs About Moving a Greenhouse

Before you make a decision about moving your greenhouse, review these FAQs.

Is it cheaper to move or rebuild a greenhouse?

It depends on factors like its size and condition, the cost to transport it, and the price of a greenhouse you’d get as a replacement.

Can I move a greenhouse by myself?

It’s possible, but you may want to consider bringing in the pros to make the process easier. They can pack and load items much more efficiently, but make sure the movers you hire have experience in moving greenhouses.

How long does it take to move a greenhouse?

The length of time it takes can vary. For example, a smaller greenhouse made of fewer pieces will usually take less time than a larger, more complex one. This means the entire process, such as disassembling it, packing it safely, and transporting it, can take from a handful of hours to a full day or more.

Can greenhouses be moved in winter?

Yes! However, you’ll have to take extra care to protect your plants from the cold to minimize their (and your) stress.

With your greenhouse built to code and plants rehomed, it’s time to enjoy the fruits of your labor. You can replace any plants you couldn’t bring with you to have a full, flourishing greenhouse to enjoy once again.

How To Move Your Garden Without Killing Your Plants

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There are plenty of reasons you might want to move your garden. Maybe you bought a new greenhouse or are moving to a new home. But whatever reason you have, one thing remains constant: plants don’t like to be moved. 

Whether you’re moving them across the yard or across the country, your roses and your rhubarb may not survive the trip if you don’t do it right. But don’t fret! With the proper care and attention, you can successfully transplant your entire garden and give all your flowers and plants a new home. 

Read on for steps on how to make your move easy for any plant you have, and be sure to check out the How to Move Your Garden infographic too!


Move Your Plants in Spring or Fall

The worst time to move a garden is in the heat of the summer. Exposing roots and root systems to that scorching sun can suck all the moisture from them, and may cause irreparable damage. More on this from thespruce.com:

 

“Exposing roots to the air is a traumatic experience for a plant, and not all specimens survive the ordeal…[I]n summer, transplanting is not advisable because the weather is simply too hot, which puts too much stress on the plant. If transplanting during hot weather, provide shade for the plant for about a week.”

 

If you’re moving somewhere that regularly has freezing temperatures in winter, then moving plants during that season also isn’t advised. If you have no choice but to move your garden in the heat of summer or the chill of winter, we will include tips along the way to ensure your garden’s safety.

See prices for local moving labor. Read real customer reviews. Easily book your help online.

Transporting Your Plants: Water, Dig, Contain

If you are moving your outdoor garden from one home to another, then you’ll need more than just pots, buckets, and burlap. You’ll definitely need something to transport your plants in, but more importantly, the shock of moving is enough to kill many kinds of plants, so it’s important to prepare them for the trip. And it starts before you stick your spade into the dirt.

1. Water Them Well First

A garden of various flowers and bushes being watered in preparation for a move

In the lead-up to your move, you’ll want to give your garden plenty of water to help them endure the stress of transit. The larger your garden, the more time you’ll need to prepare your plants for transport, so plan ahead. Don’t wait until it’s time to dig up and pot everything! Allow for several days of generous watering, which comes with the added benefit of making the job of digging up your garden easier.

It’s also important to give your plants plenty of water while transporting them. Keep them cool. Keep them in the shade. Give them plenty of fresh air.

At the same time, be careful not to overwater either. Too much water in the soil can deprive plants from soaking up critical oxygen through their roots. This is especially pertinent to potted plants in transit, as there is nowhere for any excess water to go. 

One exception to this watering rule goes for plants with bare roots, or “naked roots.” The bottoms of these plants need to be submerged in water for two to three hours before being replanted.

Here are just a few common bare-root plants:

  • Shrubs
  • Hosta
  • Daylilies
  • Roses
  • Fruit trees
  • Prairie Onion

2. Dig Around the Drip Line

Once it’s time to dig those plants out of your old garden, you’ll want to be careful not to dig too near the base of the plant. Doing so risks chopping off some of the plant’s most important roots!

Instead, take a hand shovel and dig a ring around and a bit away from the main stem of your plant, carefully paying attention to any roots you might inadvertently find. This ring is called the drip line, so named because this invisible line marks the area where your plant drips rainwater onto the ground. For larger plants, the ring you dig around the plant should be at least 6 inches deep.

 

“Once your plants are replanted in your new place, provide some shade to protect them from any direct sunlight for at least a couple of days.”

 

When you start digging around any size plant, you will find that you will most likely cut at least a few roots along the way. This is not disastrous, but keep it to a minimum and make sure you cut any roots cleanly. Tearing or shredding the flesh of the roots is unhealthy for the plant.

Once your ring is dug, use a larger shovel to get below the root system and pop the plant out of place. Don’t shake or remove any soil from the root ball, since this is some of the best protection for your plant during the move.

3. Contain Your Plants Correctly for Transport

Someone plants flowers into a pot for transportation

As you dig up and remove each plant from the ground, waste no time transferring them to the pots, buckets, or burlap you’ll be transporting them in. Remember that you’ll need to keep everything adequately watered, so a pot or tub of some kind will keep your burlap-wrapped friend from leaking all over your car!

But should you trim your plants? Some sources like The Garden Helper suggest cutting off any stems or foliage that are dying or in excess. Doing this will diminish the trauma your plant might experience. They do, however, note that this may not be appropriate for all plants (but don’t mention which ones). Others wonder whether trimming or pruning the less healthy or over-abundant areas of your plants might do more harm than good.

We suggest underdoing it rather than overdoing it!

Replant the Right Way

Someone replants a rose into a recently dug and watered hole

As soon as you arrive at your new home you’ll have a hundred things to do. But keep in mind, unlike your flatscreen tv or dining table, plants can wilt and die. It’s important to sort out your garden and replant as quickly as possible.

First things first, be sure to have your plants’ new homes ready to go before you take them out of their old ones. The less time your flowers and plants spend in limbo, the better.

 

“The worst time to move a garden is in the heat of the summer. Exposing roots and root systems to that scorching sun can suck all the moisture from them, and may cause irreparable damage.”

 

If you are transplanting from smaller into bigger pots, have enough extra soil at the bottom and more on hand to fill in the extra space around the edges. If you are planting directly into the ground, make sure each new hole is dug out big enough and watered before you pull anything from its pot. Also, pack the soil solid, but not so much that the water runs off and away.

And if you can’t help but exercise your green thumb in the heat of summer, douse your freshly dug holes with even more water before transferring those plants. The roots will need lots of moisture to mitigate the shock of being uprooted and exposed to the hot air and sun.

See prices for local moving labor. Read real customer reviews. Easily book your help online.

Reduce Stress in Your Plants’ New Home

Once your plants are replanted in your new place, provide some shade to protect them from any direct sunlight for at least a couple of days. Keep being generous with the water, something best done early morning or in the evening. And if you see any plants with drooping or discolored leaves, give them extra special attention.

Your plants will thank you for it.


Check out our infographic for all the tips in one place! Happy Gardening!


Infographic by Subin Yang

 
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