Should You Use Salt or Sand on an Icy Driveway?

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Slipping and falling on an icy driveway is bad enough when you’re only holding your car keys. So imagine wiping out while carrying a box full of books or a dresser full of clothes.

As a mover, I’ve seen it. And it’s flippin’ scary.

Winter is one of the cheapest times to move, but with the snow and ice of the season comes the potential for serious injury to you or your movers. Being the forward-thinking person that you are, you might already be contemplating, “should I cover my front walk and driveway with salt or sand?”

To help you make the best choice, here is the rundown on each, and some more information on how to keep your pathways and driveways as slip-free as possible. 


First, Shovel the Area You’re Going To Be Walking On

As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It’s easier to shovel snow than it is to get rid of ice, so it makes good sense to keep your front walk, your driveway, and the sidewalk in front of your house clear and clean.

In other words: Don’t wait until the night before or the morning of your move to start shoveling!

If you live where temperatures can remain below freezing for days on end (if not weeks—hello, Minnesota!), it becomes more important to keep shoveling, multiple times over multiple days if necessary, to keep all that snow from getting packed down and turned into ice.

But what if Mother Nature insists on coating the driveway with snow and ice in the hours leading up to your move? Then it’s time for a quicker cure.

Should I Use Sand or Salt?

To summarize the difference between salt or sand for snow and ice:

Sand simply covers up snow and ice. Salt melts snow and ice.

Which is better depends on how cold it is, and how much you care if it gets into the environment. In either case, the biggest priority is traction. So let’s compare.

The case for sand

Pros:

  • Less toxic
  • Comparatively cheaper
  • Works immediately

Cons:

  • Needs to be reapplied
  • Might not work in extremely cold temperatures
  • Can collect in drainage systems and make it into waterways

Sand is an easy, cheap, and quick solution to your icy problems. Dump out a few bags and spread it around, and you instantly have a safer place to walk. However, since sand provides traction, once it gets ground into the snow or ice it becomes less effective. Considering how many times you or your movers will be walking back and forth on it, you’ll likely have to put more down once or twice during the move. It can also freeze into hazardous clumps in really extreme temperatures. 

 

“Get an idea of how much square footage you’ll need to cover before you run out to grab that salt or sand. If a sales assistant isn’t there to help, you might find how much you need right on the bag.”

 

Keep in mind that there are several different varieties of sand, as well. There is stuff explicitly meant for icy roads and surfaces, which is the best. If you don’t have access to that, sandbox sand will also work well, and certainly better than mason’s sand. In general, the grittier the sand is, the better.

And be sure to clean up after yourself! Sweep up the sand yourself, incentivize your kids, or pay someone else to do the work, but don’t leave it around, otherwise too much will wash away into the drainage systems. Check out the advice at HowToDisposeOf for tips on what to do with that sand once you’re done with it. 

The case for salt

salt or sand

Pros:

  • Gets rid of the ice by melting it away, instead of just covering it up
  • Specifically designed for this process, so there’s a lot of availability and choice
  • No need to reapply it once it’s cleared the ice

Cons:

  • Takes some time to begin working, so you need to apply it hours to a full day in advance
  • Can damage property and lawns, or potentially be harmful to pets
  • Won’t work below certain temperatures

You likely already know that salt gets rid of ice and snow, but you might not be familiar with how it does this. Driveway salt (sometimes called “rock salt”) doesn’t melt ice like a flamethrower would. Instead, when mixed with water, it forms a liquid brine — a fancy name for salt water — which has a lower freezing point than pure water. This brine then lowers the freezing point of the water it comes in contact with, effectively melting it. Although only down to a certain degree; brine that is 20% salt will still freeze below 0˚F.

 

“If you live where temperatures can remain below freezing for days on end…it becomes even more important to keep shoveling, multiple times over multiple days if necessary, to keep all that snow from getting packed down and turned into ice.”

 

However, this melting process takes time. So don’t toss salt around an hour before your movers pull up to your house and expect all the ice to be gone.

In addition, salt can cause damage to your property. It can rust metal, and crack most driveway and pathway surfaces due to repeated freezing/thawing cycles breaking down the integrity of the material. And you should keep animals away from the stuff in general. Not only will driveway salt cause contact burns if it gets in between pets’ paws, but it contains trace amounts of cyanide, which may cause issues for local wildlife as well as your furry friends.

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Don’t like these choices? There are alternatives!

Alternatives to salt would more accurately be called “variations of salt” and have a spectrum of merits. While you can probably find any of these at a store, which one to pick is most dependent on exactly how cold it is where you are.

  • Calcium chloride (CaCl): At around minus 25˚F, it has a lower freezing point than rock salt. It also works more quickly because it gives off heat as it dissolves. However, calcium chloride is corrosive to metal and can leave a slimy residue. It also encourages algae growth which clogs waterways.
  • Magnesium chloride: Somewhat less corrosive than calcium chloride, it will begin to absorb moisture from the air at 32% humidity, speeding up the melting process.
  • Potassium chloride (KCl): Despite its use for executions by lethal injection, is safer for pets and plants than calcium chloride. But with a freezing point of around 12˚F, it is also less effective.
  • Nitrogen-based urea products: Like nitrogen-based fertilizers, this salt is ineffective under 20˚F and will eventually get into the water supply, lakes, and streams.
  • Calcium Magnesium Acetate (CMA): Can prevent ice down to around minus 27˚F and is much more environmentally friendly than the abovementioned salts — at a much higher price.

Are there any eco-friendly or pet-friendly alternatives?

salt or sand

With all the pros and cons of these salts and chemicals, you may be wondering if there’s an option out there that’s safe for your pets and the environment. 

The good news is that there are many pet-friendly alternatives to rock salt out there. Even better, these also tend to be the ones that are easier on the environment as well. However, if your concern runs really deep, your best bet is to look at the ingredients on any brand that claims to be pet or eco-friendly and research what effects it can have.

Grist has a list of a few alternatives to rock salt in an editorial. GreenMoxie also offers some advice and options. 

But what everyone seems to agree on — including us — is that there’s no better way to keep your driveway and your front walk clear of ice than with a little elbow grease. It’s much better to simply prevent the snowmelt from becoming thick ice in the first place, so grab that shovel and get to work as early and as often as necessary.  

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And a few more tips

  • To reiterate: salt and sand the day before your move, if you can. Clear away any chunks or other bits to help keep it all from refreezing overnight.
  • If you absolutely have to apply salt the morning of your move? The heat from all the foot traffic will help the melting process, but in the meantime, scattering some sand on top wouldn’t hurt.
  • Get an idea of how much square footage you’ll need to cover before you run out to grab that salt or sand. If a sales assistant isn’t there to help, you might find how much you need right on the bag.

Not only will your movers love you for taking the time and effort to make sure their path is clear and safe, but it will undoubtedly make the process much faster than if you hadn’t bothered to get rid of all the ice and snow.

How To Make Moving NOT One of Life’s Biggest Stressors

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Moving to a new home is supposed to be exciting.

But, as thrilling as your future may be, moving is obviously stressful.  It demands a lot of time and effort, and it’s common to feel anxious at the prospect of an unfamiliar location, culture, or workplace. There’s also the financial stress of hiring movers, putting up security deposits, and traveling to your new destination. It’s infamously one of life’s biggest stressors.

But it doesn’t have to be that way. Moving stress absolutely can and should be minimized. Read on to learn how to make your own move as stress-free as possible.

[Download the moving stress checklist here!]

Target the stressors that happen on moving day right now

One of the biggest reasons people get stressed out about moving is because they feel overwhelmed. By putting a plan in place and doing some prep work well before you start the moving process, you can nip that problem in the bud. 

  • Start with your utilities. The last thing you want is to move into your new home and realize the water hasn’t been turned on yet. About a month in advance, call up your local utility and other service providers (e.g., electricity, gas, water, trash, cable, internet, etc.) and let them know you want to transfer your services. If your current provider isn’t available where you’re moving, let them know the date you need service terminated. Then set up a new account to have service turned on a few days before your move-in date.
  • Hire movers early. We recommend booking no later than two weeks in advance. If you wait until just before your move date, the higher-rated and/or cheaper companies will almost certainly be booked.
  • Clean stuff as you pack them, so you’re unpacking items that have already been dusted and wiped down.
  • Pack a special suitcase with a change of clothes, toiletries, medications, and anything else you might need to have on hand before all your belongings are unpacked. (Bonus: If you need to head into the office during or shortly after the move, make sure you set aside work clothes on hangers so they won’t be wrinkled.)

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Yes, it’s time—get seriously organized about your move

Feeling like your day is out of control or worrying that your belongings are missing is definitely stressful. Keeping your move as organized as possible will minimize that stress.

  • Create an inventory of everything that’s being packed and moved. Label your boxes clearly, by room, so your movers know exactly where to unload them. Then write down everything that’s in each box. Print a few copies of your inventory in case one gets lost. When your movers begin unpacking, you can reference your list and ensure everything is accounted for. 
  • Make a moving day checklist with a realistic timeline. With this checklist, you can input to-do entries from six weeks before, counting down to the big day. 
  • Have the names and phone numbers/emails of all your points of contact for move day saved, in case you need to reach someone on the fly.

Build in some buffer times leading up to move day

Everyone hopes that moving day goes smoothly. Of course, there’s always a chance that mishaps derail your schedule. Packing might take longer than expected, or maybe your movers forget something at your old place.

Whatever may or may not happen, try not to schedule everything down to the wire. 

  • It can help to tackle packing in small chunks—in between your other life responsibilities—instead of trying to get everything done in a matter of days. For example, start small; go one room at a time, beginning with your least-used rooms. You might also negotiate with the buyer/seller to give you more time in your current home.
  • Consider booking an extra day with your rental vehicle. You never know what obstacles you’ll face while packing the truck or what extra stops you’ll make along the way.
  • If you need to take some time off of work to accomplish your move, try to schedule an extra day after your move to decompress, if you have the vacation time available. You’ll likely be arranging furniture, unpacking boxes, and organizing closets for days or weeks after the official move-in date.

Outsource your responsibilities as much as possible

Many people plan on a total DIY move, taking on too many responsibilities for their timeline. This is where reasonable outsourcing comes in.

 

“…[T]he best time to move is during the off-season, either October-November or March-April. This is when you’re most likely to experience the mildest weather conditions.”

 

Even if you’re a bit strapped for cash, there are solutions to get the help you need for a stress-free move. Here are some tips to consider for outsourcing your moving tasks:

  • Hire professionals when possible. Having movers and cleaners come in to give a hand can make a big difference. Some people even hire professional organizers and packers. If you have smaller jobs that need to get done, consider using TaskRabbit or Porch.
  • Mine your support system for help. If you don’t have a ton of extra cash, ask family and friends to help out. Maybe you have a parent who can babysit while you focus on directing the movers, or a buddy with a truck who can help you save money on transporting larger items.
  • Delegate tasks as much as possible. If you have a spouse, children or teenagers, heck, even nieces or nephews, go ahead and put them to work. Cleaning, packing, and other smaller tasks are not nearly as difficult when it’s a group project.

Choose the right day and time for moving day

When you move is just as important as how. Attempting to move during times of high traffic or bad weather will only add to the stress of the situation. 

  • According to HireAHelper data, the best time to move is during the off-season, either October-November or March-April. This is when you’re most likely to experience the mildest weather conditions.
  • It’s always a good idea to check the forecast and try to plan accordingly. If it is raining or snowing, you’ll have to consider appropriate footwear and rain gear, as well as whatever protection you need to keep your furniture and boxes dry, such as a tarp, large umbrellas, or big garbage bags. 
  • Most people try to move on the weekends when they’re most likely to have time off of work (and family/friends are more likely to be available to help), so it can pay to wait until mid-week. Booking your move for a Tuesday or Wednesday will help ensure you can get a reservation with your chosen moving company, and at a lower rate. 
  • Schedule your move for the morning. Your movers are less likely to run into traffic or other issues that can cause delays. Plus, you’ll get into your new space sooner, so you can start unpacking and getting settled in. 

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Don’t forget to food prep snacks and drinks for the day of the move

Let’s be honest, no one wants to deal with you when you’re “hangry”. But the hustle and bustle of moving might mean you skip meals or have to resort to fast food. 

Be sure to prep some easy, maybe healthy meals like sandwiches or salads, along with some disposable cutlery. Have portable snacks handy, too, such as nuts, string cheese, jerky and other foods that will help you feel full and focused. And don’t forget to carry plenty of water with you to avoid getting dehydrated.


There’s no guarantee any move will be entirely stress-free. But if you prepare well ahead of time, pace yourself, and have a game plan, a lot of the usual anxiety-causing culprits won’t seem so bad. And remember, outsourcing help for your move is a surefire way to take some of the tasks off your to-do list.

How To Pack a Bike for Moving like a Pro

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This article should probably be called, “How Regular People Should Pack a Bicycle for Moving”. Most people don’t even bother wiping the mud splatters off their bike before they have their movers roll it onto the truck.

But if your bicycle is not in a box, it will either end up lying flat on top of your stuff, or wedged in the middle somewhere. Yet in transit, not only can your bike get damaged, but it can also cause some serious damage.

The pros know this. But lucky for us regular people, it’s not only possible but not too difficult to pack a bicycle in the garage or out in the yard. You just need a short list of simple supplies.

What You Need to Disassemble a Bike

  • A couple of hand wrenches (most pedals require a 15mm wrench)
  • Hex wrenches (i.e., Allen wrench set)
  • Padding, such as bubble wrap, foam tube covers, sheets of foam, or whatever you’ve got
  • Tape, including box tape and some skinnier stuff
  • Scissors (or a pocket knife)
  • A small cardboard box for bike parts
  • Sixty minutes, give or take

And for the absolute best results, you need a good sturdy bike box! Call or visit your local bike shop, as they’ll likely be more than happy to have you take one off their hands. If they don’t have a box on hand, ask when they’ll be getting new bikes delivered and ask them to set an empty box aside for you.

Bonus: Ask them to leave the packing materials in there for you. You’ll see why in a minute.

Other helpful bits:

  • Zip ties
  • Ziploc or other plastic bags
  • Extra cardboard

Packing Your Bicycle, Step By Step

1. Shift the gears to the lowest gear on your bike, so the chain is on the largest (innermost) rear chainring

How do you pack a bike? You have to start on the lowest gear. This pulls the rear derailleur, aka the most expensive and delicate component on your bike, closer to the rear wheel. It also adds an extra ounce of protection against potential impact damage.

Remember: to shift, you need to be pedaling! 

2. Remove the pedals

Now it’s time to use that 15mm wrench. (This might seem scary, but it really isn’t.)

Get a tight grip on the end of the pedal and twist. Note that you’ll have to turn the pedals in opposite directions, left pedal clockwise, and right pedal counter-clockwise. Please take note that removing some pedals requires an Allen (hex) wrench, with the hole on the inner end of the pedal closest to the bicycle.  

Put the pedals in your small cardboard “parts box”.

You’ll notice each pedal should be marked with an “L” or an “R”, which tells you which side of the bike each one goes on when you put your bike back together (since the threads on one pedal run opposite to the other).

Note: Over time, some pedals can become kind of stuck. Some WD-40 type lube might do the trick. If it doesn’t, my working solution is to sit on the bike with the wrench on the pedal, free-end toward the rear of the bike. Squeeze the brakes and push down on the wrench with your foot. But please, be careful not to bang, scrape, or lacerate your leg on your bike once that pedal comes loose!

3. Start adding crucial padding

Use bubblewrap (or whatever you’ve got) to wrap the most sensitive (and dangerous) parts of your bike frame: 

It’s a good idea to tape or zip-tie one of the pedal cranks to the bike frame to keep the chain drive from moving and shifting. Do this before wrapping the derailleur!

Pro tip: If you are superhuman and can rip a piece of tape off the roll with one hand while holding your bubble wrap in place with the other, awesome. For us regular people, it is super helpful to stick a couple of pieces of tape on your forearm or the leg of your jeans before you start wrestling that bubble wrap into place.

In the end, your bike might look as covered as this:

4. Remove and secure the handlebars

With the Allen (hex) wrench, remove the four bolts holding the faceplate in place.

Be careful not to let the handlebars go freefalling when the bolts come out, as this can do bad things to the brake and shifting cable mechanisms—and possibly your knees. Immediately screw the bolts back in to put the faceplate back on when the bars are off.

Since they are attached to the ends of your handle bars, be careful not to yank, strain or otherwise abuse the brake and shift cables while you’re doing this! If possible, tape or zip-tie the handlebars to the right side of the bike frame, like this:

5. Remove the front wheel

Rim brake (left) and disc brake (right) – cyclingnews.com

If you have rim brakes, you’ll need to loosen them first to allow the wheel to come off. Disc brakes need no attention for now.

To get the wheel off, you need to flip the little lever on the left side of the wheel hub and loosen the axle until the wheel comes free. Keep unscrewing the axle until the part on the right side comes off.

Careful: there are two conical springs on the axle, which look exactly how they sound like. Don’t lose them! Simply slide the axle out of the wheel, put the spring and the end piece back on the axel, and put the whole thing into the cardboard parts box with your pedals (and other small parts).

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6. Wrap the front fork

When you are taking the front wheel off, it’s a good idea to have a piece of cardboard ready so you don’t set the ends of your front fork on the ground where it will get scratched. A foam pipe cover cut to size works well as fork padding, but bubble wrap works too.

7. For added protection, pad the disc brake (if your bike has disc brakes)

If your bike has disc brakes, you’ll have to pad the brake mechanism on the left fork. (Pad the ends of the forks well!) Padding wheel hubs and the elements of your chain drive can be challenging… to say the least. But if you really care about your bike, this is what a professional would do to protect it fully.

Also, taping pieces of extra cardboard to the inside of the bike box where these parts sit lends an extra layer of protection. Go even further by putting extra bubble wrap or foam underneath these extra pieces of cardboard.

If the good folks at the bike shop gave you the packing materials along with the bike box, look for something that looks like the head of a hammerhead shark. This is a specialized piece that will not only protect the ends of your forks, but will hold them in place to prevent them from getting bent or otherwise damaged from pressure or impact. Other pieces may attach to the wheel hubs, not only protecting them but also providing an extra surface area to keep the box from getting crushed against your bicycle.

8. Put your bike in the box

Make sure to turn the front fork 180 degrees so the neck (the part that holds the handlebars) is facing backwards. Slide the front wheel in on the left side of the bike. Keep the front tire on the left side! This is so it doesn’t get chewed up by the chainrings on the right!

Lower your seat so you can put some padding and/or extra cardboard on it and still properly close the box. Left in place, the seat can help keep the box from getting crushed on top.

Note: Some people prefer to remove the seat, wrap it up, and tape/zip-tie it to the bike frame or pack it separately. You do you.

9. Tape up the box

Before you do, you may choose to stick some extra items in there for even more padding and protection. Old blankets work well, as does camping gear like tents or sleeping bags. However, be aware of any sharp points or edges on your bicycle that could tear a hole in the fabric, especially if the bike is going a long distance. Don’t use anything you particularly care about.

Tape the box on all corners and along the top and bottom edges. Tape the carry holes on the sides of the box to reinforce them, like so.

Pro tip: If the box is big enough, putting these extra blankets, tents, or whatever in plastic bags helps keeps dirt and chain grease away.


The Final Pro Tip

If you find your bike won’t quite fit in the box, well, remove the rear wheel too! This will require the removal of the rear derailleur from the frame, which should only typically involve removing one additional bolt or screw. But don’t just leave it hanging! Wrap it well and secure it to the inside of the bike frame where it won’t get smacked around.

Take the axle out of the rear wheel just as you did the front, and just like before, take extra care to protect all those chainrings.

And now the fun part: you’ll have to zip-tie one or both wheels to the bike frame so that all those exposed chain drive components are not resting on the bottom of the box. (And avoid having to do all of this by simply getting a big enough box!)


Packing a bike isn’t as complicated as it seems, it just takes a little getting used to. And if you’re finding yourself too frightened to do all of the above, ask your movers if they can help (they probably have done this before). But if you’re doing this alone and/or for the first time, don’t freak out! Once you get the hang of it, you’ll never forget. It’s kind of like riding a…

This Is Why Shrink Wrap Is Essential for Moving

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Some call it “plastic wrap”, others say “stretch wrap”, and movers in a hurry call it “shrink”. But the most common name for that huge roll of sticky sheet plastic that movers use? It’s just “shrink wrap”.

Shrink wrap resembles Saran Wrap, but it’s bigger – about eighteen inches long – and it’s as thick and heavy as a log. While Saran Wrap covers your leftovers, shrink wrap covers your couch to protect it from dirt and more importantly, keep everything in place while moving.

Despite its name, there’s nothing small about shrink. It’s claimed its place as a staple in the toolbox of every moving team. This is why I’m going to share why using shrink wrap is so important and how you should be using it for your next move

Why do movers always use shrink wrap?

Some might say that the sky’s the limit when imagining how you can use shrink wrap. Once I witnessed wo of my fellow crew members, who were in the process of tackling a garage, enclose an entire plastic shelving system with everything still on the shelves as an alternative to packing everything on those shelves in boxes. It actually worked! (Although, I don’t recommend it.)

Most professional movers use shrink wrap for three things:

  • To keep dust and dirt off of upholstered furniture (“OS”, in mover-language)
  • To keep furniture pads in place around larger items like OS, major appliances, pianos, large TVs, and heavy tabletops
  • To keep things safely in place. This means keeping drawers from sliding out of your dresser, keeping the cushions on your sofa and loveseat from falling off and getting dirty (or lost); and keeping the doors on your china cabinet or armoire from suddenly swinging open and breaking right off their hinges

Now that we have covered why movers use it, let’s talk about how to use it. It might be a little harder than it looks.

How do you use shrink wrap?

3menmovers.com

The whole point of using shrink wrap is to create a tight protective layer of plastic over whatever you are wrapping. You’ll notice pretty quickly that shrink wrap doesn’t generally stick to your stuff; it only sticks to itself. So if you don’t have a shrink wrap dispenser and are shrink wrapping, say, your sofa, you’ll need to do the following:

  • Either tie the end of the plastic wrap around one leg of your sofa, or have your friend hold the end of the plastic in place against one side or corner of the sofa
  •  Walk backward with your shrink wrap in your hands, letting it unroll as you go, circling until you overlap the end of the roll (and probably your friend’s hands)

From there, with your shrink wrap now stuck in place, keep circling your sofa (or china cabinet or tool chest) until it’s safe enough to be loaded into the truck.

shrink wrap dispenser
A shrink wrap dispenser will set you back around $50, but can expedite a pack job, especially for junior crew members.

Important Mover Tips for Using Shrink Wrap

As we mentioned, the secret is wrapping tightly to keep the plastic from sagging and becoming useless. I recommend doing these things to ensure you’re using shrink wrap like a pro on all your moves.

Always wear work gloves when using it

Some shrink wrap comes with handles on either end, making it look like a big rolling pin. But I find that these handles just get in the way, especially when you try to wrap the bottom edge of your upholstered sofa or heavy dresser.

It’s much easier to hold your roll of shrink wrap loosely, letting it unroll around your fingers as you go. But be careful before you find out the hard way that the friction of the spinning roll of shrink wrap will burn the skin right off your fingers, kind of like a rope burn, but potentially much worse. Trust me. Find some decent gloves.

Don’t let your shrink wrap fall or roll on the ground

Suppose you drop it on the floor and damage one edge of the roll. The fall can cause the plastic to shred (!) as you unroll it over your furniture, and that will most likely result in you throwing that now-useless thing out the window in a rage of frustration because the stuff is also expensive!

Likewise, don’t roll it across the floor, or your driveway, or the floor of your truck or container. Even one small rock can nick the surface, causing the plastic to pull apart in pieces the next time you try to use it. Feel free to test me on this if you don’t believe me, but I will not be held responsible for your ruined roll of shrink wrap or the window you throw it through.

shrink wrap

Don’t use shrink wrap on wood and other specific surfaces without an extra layer of coverage 

One of the most common uses of shrink wrap is for OS and mattresses (But I strongly recommend reusable mattress bags over one-time landfill-filling shrink wrap). Wrapping OS and mattresses with shrink wrap generally does not cause problems because it won’t adhere to the fabric and damage it.

On the other hand, shrink wrap can get stuck to wood, vinyl, even metal. This is crucial for long-distance moves and items that are going into storage. Over time and in extreme temperatures, shrink wrap will stick to your wooden dining room chairs, your leather couch, and maybe the surfaces of your fridge. And it may never completely come off.

To guard against this, cover these items in furniture pads or thick brown Kraft paper sheets before wrapping them tightly in shrink wrap. “Tightly” is the key word here, because if it is not tight, it will not hold those pads or sheets of brown paper in place, and your fridge will slip right out of your hands.

Don’t ever lock in any moisture

While shrink wrap’s primary purpose is to keep dust and dirt away, completely sealing your sofa in the stuff can backfire. If moisture gets trapped inside and has no way of escaping, you can end up with mold (the black, blue, and green stuff) and mildew (the white stuff) all over your living room set. Again, extended time and extreme temperatures can exacerbate the situation. Be sure to leave a few openings when you wrap your OS (and everything else).

Don’t squeeze too tight!

As mentioned, shrink wrap should be stretched tight (within reason) when used. This of course, means pressure on what is being wrapped. So if you pull it too tight around your dining room chairs or your coffee table, you might snap the legs right off. This applies to any other pieces of furniture with legs, like upright pianos, sideboard tables, and the rare dining room or kitchen table with legs that don’t detach.

Similarly, I don’t advise shrink-wrapping cheap IKEA-type furniture. That bookcase you bought and put together yourself was probably not made to withstand a three-day bear hug.


Upholstered furniture will likely not get irrevocably dusty after one day in the back of your rental truck. Tape is often effective enough to keep furniture pads – and dresser or armoire doors – in place. 

However, if stuff is going into storage for a while, and you want to make sure everything remains safe and protected, shrink wrap might be a worthwhile investment, and it’s always important to keep some in stock back at headquarters. 

The Most Damaged Items During a Long Distance Move & How to Pack Them

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Category: How To Pack, Long Distance Moving Advice

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Moving valuables far away can be worrisome for everyone involved. For us movers, is there anything more important than keeping our customers’ belongings safe during a long distance move? Damaged goods can be costly… both to our bottom lines and our reputations.

Movers can probably guess what kinds of items are most prone to suffering damage in transit. Nevertheless, we crunched the data to find out which items are most at-risk during transit, relative to other common items. Here are crucial tips on packing these items in a way that will minimize damage, maximize profits, and keep our reputations sky high.

How to Pack Flatscreen TVs

flatscreen tv

For anyone out there who thinks wrapping a flat-screen TV in a furniture pad and loading it on the truck is a good idea, I’ve got one word: “Areyoukiddingme?!” Not only are flat screens the most often damaged item on long-distance moves, but they are also, unofficially, every customer’s most valued possession. This one has to be done right.

Luckily, it isn’t hard. You just need the right supplies.

  • Always start by securely wrapping every inch of that flat screen with a furniture pad
  • Get a TV box. Prep your TV box by lining the bottom with crumpled packing paper
  • Cover the screen side of your padded TV with an extra piece of cardboard, to add an extra bit of protection against external impact
  • TV in box, add more crumpled packing paper to further protect each surface and edge
  • Tape your carton securely, Label the outside with plenty of words of warning: “TV”, “FRAGILE”, and “KEEP UPRIGHT”

Get an instant quote for local TV mounting services.

How to Pack Glassware, Dishes, Vases, China, Ceramics

glassware china

These items win the prize for most time-consuming to pack. The trick with this stuff is to find that balance between adequate padding and keeping everything inside the carton tight, for two reasons. One, you don’t want breakables moving and shifting and vibrating in that carton while in transit. Two, a tight, dense carton is less prone to being crushed or damaged, vertically or laterally, from external impact.

  • A sturdy carton is always best
  • Use plenty of packing paper, crumpled and covering each interior surface of your carton
  • Pack glasses upright, and plates vertical/on end
  • Pack dishes on the bottom of your dish pack, bowls in the middle, glasses on top
    •  In other words, heaviest items on bottom, lightest on top, just like loading a truck
  • A packed dish pack should be dense and tight, with lots of crumpled packing paper on top
  • Partitions are useful for crystal and stemware, mainly to guard against top-down pressure. Still, it’s critical to keep everything tight and immobile in there

Note: Decorative glass and ceramic items, particularly odd-shaped pieces, are better off packed separately from the plates and bowls and glasses in the kitchen. Using a dish pack for such items is not always necessary. Using ample amounts of packing paper is. Keep things tight, and label that box on every side in big red lettering: “FRAGILE, GLASS, TOP LOAD”!

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How to Pack Picture Frames and Artwork

moving art

Picture Frames and Artwork

Picture frames come in all sizes, and therefore can – and should – go in whatever size carton is appropriate and sensible. The one common denominator? Pack them (and load them on the truck) vertically.

  • Large picture frames and pieces of wall art can be wrapped in furniture pads, though brown Kraft paper will usually suffice
  • Cover large surfaces with extra cardboard (same as TVs)
  • Smaller picture frames can go in dish packs – not with dishes, but with other picture frames
  • Fill extra space in your box with non-threatening items (e.g., clothing, bedding)
  • Smaller frames can go in 4.5 cartons, 3.1 cartons, or even book boxes. Just keep them vertical and protected and label those cartons well

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How to Pack Mattresses and Box Springs

Moving mattress

Though they are among the simplest items in the world to pack, mattresses and box springs nevertheless often get damaged on long-distance moves. The reason? They don’t actually get packed… at all. Haul a mattress or box spring onto the truck and cover it with some pads, and you’ll end up with soiled and torn fabric. Do this instead:

  • Put mattresses and box springs into proper mattress cartons, which can be a bit pricey, but not nearly as costly as a replacement mattress
  • Slip mattresses and box springs into mattress bags before packing them in cartons to help keep them clean
    • Avoid taping mattress bags completely shut, especially for long drives. Doing so can trap moisture inside, causing mold, mildew, or just plain stink
  • For the same reasons, DO NOT wrap mattresses and box springs in shrink wrap (yes, I’ve seen it done). Besides the moisture factor, shrink wrapping is also wasteful and ineffective. Go with the mattress bag/box combo

Had trouble with other hard-to-pack items? Let us know! We’ll go over more strategic tips to give your skills and your business a boost.

We Asked 12 Professional Organizers How They Made Their Moves Easier

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While moving to a new home is exciting, it is also an overwhelming task due to all the things that need to be done before, during, and after you start enjoying new adventures and experiences. Just thinking about preparing for a big move can make you feel anxious. We reached out to expert home organizers and asked them for tips to help you overcome this task.

Read on to check out our list of easy moving and packing tips.

How do you get organized before moving?

Getting organized for a move requires a project management approach. You will have extensive lists and planning to help you keep your sanity.

  • Start with developing a timeline for your move. Work backward on your timeline to include dates the movers will load the truck, packers will arrive, the time you will be off residence while packing occurs, decluttering, change of address, optional items you will sell or donate before the move, and other items coming out of storage for your move. Record this timeline in your planner.
  • Add team members to your project. This includes movers, packers, professional organizers, childcare help, and other resources. It’s much harder to do this project entirely alone. Be sure to add the cost of all these additional tasks to add to your budget.
  • Start decluttering at least THREE months in advance, if you can. You can eliminate what you don’t use or need at your new residence. This saves you money and lowers your stress.
  • Keep your move organized with labels. Have plenty of markers available to write the contents on your boxes. You can label the boxes with a room name or assign a number to the room. Your movers will appreciate knowing that they can unload in the correct room without your direction because you have labeled the rooms and boxes.
  • Remember the “last in, first out” box, and your personal needs during this move. The last in, first out box should contain all the hardware for beds and the remote controls. These are vital to your happiness during the first 24 hours in your new home. Your personal needs items include medications and stuffed animals that must be a part of your first night in your home.
  • Keep calm and carry on! It will take a little longer than you like to settle in, even with every box unpacked. Happy moves happen with a plan!

-Ellen R. Delap at Professional Organizer

How exactly do you make a schedule for moving?

Moving has been ranked as one of the three most stressful life experiences! The good newsit doesn’t have to be. I’ve been helping people with all aspects of moving for over 15 years, and my biggest tip for less stress and a smooth move is to create a moving schedule with specific dates as soon as you decide to move. 

  • Start with an old-school blank calendar. Even if your whole life is digital, there is something about seeing your key dates on paper – starting with your move date and current commitments – that gives you a realistic overview of what to do when. 
  • Search online for “move checklist for a general sense of the steps involved. Most will have a 6-8 week plan. The checklist I use with clients is 18 pages long to ensure nothing falls through the cracks.

Customize the checklist to reflect your needs and time frame. If you’re moving locally, there’s less to do; there’s more to do if you’re planning to pack and move yourself and not use movers (Pro tip: unless your move is very small, it’s worth getting a free quote from movers – hiring movers is usually money well spent.) 

  • Make appointments with folks who can helpfrom professional organizers to help manage your move and declutter beforehand to movers to handymen to install your TV and window treatments.
  • Block out time in your main calendar to work on your move.
  • Stick to your schedule – and adjust as necessary. Plan for the unexpected!

By creating a realistic, comprehensive moving schedule, you’ll save yourself time, money, and aggravation and will feel in control of the process. Get started!

-Lisa Zaslow at Gotham Organizers

How do you pack kitchen items?

Use small boxes when packing a kitchen and label the boxes with the roomkitchen, dining room, or pantryand with the contents. 

Pare down your kitchen items as you pack. Get rid of any gadgets that only do one thing (avocado slicer, banana saver, lettuce knife, etc.) Movers charge by weight. If you have a set of china, crystal, or silver you haven’t used in years, get rid of that before you pay to move it! 

Use up the food and pantry items you already have and don’t buy anything in bulk for the last few months in your old house. If you come across expired foods and spices, throw those away as you pack.  

Finally, pack your kitchen in phases

Up to 2 months ahead:

Pack entertaining/party supplies or anything you know won’t need before you move. 

If you are moving far away, think ahead of time about who can use your extra food, toiletries, and cleaning supplies when you leave. Women’s shelters often take these kinds of things, even if they have been opened. 

Up to 2 weeks ahead:

Pack up everything else in the kitchen by category, leaving out the bare essentials. You want to leave enough plates and glasses, napkins, and sippy cups for your family to cook and eat for a day. Pack all but one pot and two pans, two dishtowels, etc. Think about what you’d find in a rental unit. Leave just the basics, nothing extra. 

The day before you move out:

Pack up these everyday supplies and food (if it’s a local move). Label those boxes “KitchenOPEN FIRST.” Once you arrive in your new kitchen, you can open those 2-3 boxes and make due until you have time to unpack fully. 

Nonnahs at Get Organized Already

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Tips for packing your clothes

My favorite tips for packing clothes begin with a plan!

Before I pull anything out of the closet, I make a list of the specialty pieces I may need for where I’m going (e.g., exercise clothes, swimsuit, ski jacket, etc.) I also note if I need multiples, like four pairs of ski socks, for four days of skiing.

Then, I make a note of how many days of clothes I’ll need, how many nights (pajamas), as well as anything else, like underclothes and belts. I’ll also look up the weather, so I know I want to take long-sleeved tops and not short sleeves. I’ll pull out however many of each item and scratch it off my list. I consider myself a “folder”, so I like to fold these items into stacks that will fit neatly into my suitcase or bag. But, if rolling works better for your wrinkle-prone pieces, please do so! Laying out the items in stacks or rolls also allows me to quickly assess whether I need a piece of luggage in a different size. Now that I’ve secured my clothes, I can snugly fit shoes, accessories, and toiletries in the space between clothes’ stacks and other pockets. 

-Amy Trager at Amy Trager

What order should you pack in?

Begin with the home areas that you use the least because you will have to live without these items from now until you have unpacked in the new space. Start with rooms you rarely use or are mainly used for storage, like guest bedrooms, rooms of children away at college, and the basement, attic, and garage. 

Consider whether you really need and want to keep the item. Keep a boxed marked “Donate” by the doorway. Any item that doesn’t make the cut for your new home should go there. As you pack, move carefully stacked, inventoried, and labeled boxes to one side so you can see your progress as items “disappear” and the boxes are filled.

Methodically move cabinet-by-cabinet, or drawer-by-drawer. However, because there may still be weeks (or more) until you move, you will now not only consider whether to move, donate or discard something, but you may need to keep it in place until much closer to moving day. 

If it’s winter, pack the summer clothes and shoes from your closets. In living or family rooms, keep the TV and sound system, but pack up the books, puzzles, photo albums, and games. In the linen closet, pack everything except one change of sheets per bed and a few extra blankets. In the kitchen for your remaining time at home, pack whatever you can live without (e.g., gadgets, small appliances you rarely use, specialty supplies, and items). In your home office, pack all of your files in bankers boxes, and pack office supplies you won’t need daily in a separate container. Box up financial files and essential documents related to the move separately to travel with you; don’t leave them with the movers.

In areas you use most often, envision what you’d pack if you were setting up a vacation cottage for just a few weeks. Only leave minimal cookware, enough supplies to prepare simple meals, and adequate silverware, plates, and glasses to serve your needs for your time away. Then, pack everything else, leaving only your imaginary vacation essentials unboxed until right before moving day!

While packing, if you find something in the “wrong” space, move it to the room that corresponds to where it will go in your new house.

Finally, the only things left to pack should be what you will need for the first few days in your new home. Use a small suitcase or duffel bag for each person’s clothes, accessories, school or work items, toiletries, and medications, plus a box of first-night essentials like chargers, toilet paper, and a new shower curtain. Keep these items and all financial records safely with you during transit.

-Julie Bestry at Julie Bestry 

moving tips

The top 3 most important factors before moving

  1. Take time to declutter before moving. Moving is an excellent opportunity to declutter since everything has to be touched anyway. Ask yourself if you use or love each item and have a place to store it in your new home. If you don’t use or don’t love it or you can’t easily store it, now’s a great time to let it go. You won’t have to pack it, move it, and unpack it.
  2. Organize your packing. If you’re packing yourself, group items that go together in a room into categories and pack them in the same boxes. That way, you can label each box with a category. (For example, a kitchen box might also have the label food storage containers.) That will make it easier to unpack in an organized fashion and, if it takes you a while to unpack, you’ll be able to find the appropriate box if you’re looking for something. If you hire movers to pack, take the time to group categories of items together before they pack so that your boxes don’t contain a hodgepodge of stuff. Try to also label your boxes for the destination room (not the origin room) so that movers can get them into the right room. 
  3. Start early. The earlier you start organizing and decluttering, the less likely you will pay to move stuff you end up donating on the other end. Starting early also cuts down on stress and makes the move calmer. You’re more likely to get the dates you want with movers if you book them early. And if you’re hiring a professional organizing company or move manager to help, the earlier they get on board, the easier everything will be.

-Janine Adams at Peace of Mind Organizing

How do you pack valuables?

It’s going to depend on what the valuables are. If you still have the original packaging for jewelry (or anything!), use that. If any of your valuables are fragile, it may be worth hiring professionals to pack them.

  • See if you can lighten your load of any physical paper you don’t need anymore. For example, if you have care instructions for valuables, can you scan them? Or, if you have a valuation and a scanned copy is enough proof, shred the physical paper.
  • You will want to keep valuables like medicines and prescriptions close and in an “Unpack First Night” box, or in your suitcase or toiletries.
  • If you can’t keep valuables close, mark the box by room instead of by content. For example, “Living Room” instead of “Antique Vase”.
  • Keep track of all your valuables with some system. Take pictures, write descriptions and values. Consider an app like Sortly to keep track of everything.
  • If you’re using a packing cube or driving yourself, invest in a disc lock, as they’re a lot harder to break.
  • Use an inexpensive tracking device like Tile or TrackR so you’ll be able to know where your items are if you’re using a truck.

– Julie Coraccio at Reawaken Your Brilliance

What do you unpack first at your new home?

Be sure to unpack the rooms that you use daily first. Necessity is always first when it comes to unpacking. Think logically about the things that you will use first; sleeping, eating, and taking a shower are the essential and first activities you’ll do in your new home.  

The bedroom: After a long day of traveling and packing, you are going to want a good night’s sleep in your own bed. Reassemble the bed frame, unpack your sheets and make up your bed along with the pillows and bedspread. The rest of your bedroom items can wait. 

Set up the bathroom. You’ll feel instantly at-home if you get yourself settled into the bathroom. Hang a shower curtain, fill the medicine cabinet, and hang your towels. 

Next can be the kitchen, or kids and pet items. 

-Betsy Fein at Clutterbusters

How many days before moving should I start packing?

If you are packing yourself, ideally you’ll start packing as soon as you know you are moving! But as far as three months will make things easier (and cheaper) for you.

People often wait until the last minute and then get overwhelmed. We recommend starting to pack non-essential items (e.g., holiday, guest room, memories, decor, etc.) and queue them up in the garage, or a less frequently used space in the home. Make sure to set aside and identify things you’ll need during the move (e.g., clothing, pet care, personal items, linens, chargers, etc.), and as the move date gets closer, start packing more and more. By the time you are a few days out, the only things left should be furniture and a few bare essentials. This gives space to deal with any issues or emergencies and reduces the overall stress of the move. Be sure to label every box with its contents and final destination!

-Liz Jenkins at A Fresh Space

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How do you move perishable food (i.e., refrigerated/frozen foods)?

Take an inventory of what you have

One month prior to your scheduled move date, create an inventory of the perishable food you have on hand throughout the house (don’t forget the refrigerator in the garage and the deep freezer in the basement).

Create a plan to shrink your inventory

Your plan for dealing with perishable food will depend on a few factors:

  • Whether your move is local vs. long distance
  • Whether you are using a moving company

It’s important to understand that there are sometimes laws that prevent movers from transporting perishable items. So whatever you plan to move will need to be transported by you. Given these limitations, your goal should focus on reducing the volume of refrigerated and frozen food you have as much as possible before moving day.

With your inventory in hand, create a meal plan for the next few weeks that incorporates the food you want to consume. When you’re a week away from your move date, reassess what you still have and determine if anything can be given away to neighbors, family, or friends.

Locate your portable coolers and make sure you have plenty of ice packs on hand if you plan to transport any perishables on move day.

Prepare food for move day

On the morning of your move, set aside whatever food you need for breakfast, lunch, and dinner that day. If you are moving locally, pack whatever food remains in your coolers with ice packs. If it’s a long-distance move, you’ll need to toss whatever perishables remain.

By planning, you can avoid wasting food (and money!) during the move process.

– Natalie Gallagher at R​efined Rooms

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Is there a packing system you recommend for a move?

Make a checklist of your items! – It is the one thing you need to prepare for a move and the best way of not forgetting anything. List all the things you need for your move, for example, purchasing boxes and tape. Include all the rooms that still need to get packed. Don’t forget to add a list of what you need to do before and after moving, like any spaces in your home that need to be repaired or painted. You won’t regret having a list!

Color code boxes and rooms When it comes to packing systems, I am all about setting up color-coding systems for each room, such as red for the kitchen, blue for the bathroom, yellow for the bedrooms and, so on. Then when you start packing, you can tape the box with the corresponding room color. It does not have to be the entire box, but enough to see where the boxes will belong. By giving each room of your new home a designated color with tape or even a sign on the door, it makes it super easy for your movers to put boxes in those areas.

Label boxes by room and sub-section – You can keep it simple with the name of where it will go. However, I like to take it a step further. For example, for the bathroom, instead of writing just the location of where it is going to, I would write “Bathroom Shower Items” or “Bathroom Under The Sink”. This will make it easier to unpack those items in the new home.

-Shanice Bannis at City of Creative Dreams

Should you pack by room or item category?

When packing, you should go room by room. However, this is also a great opportunity to first move items that are in the wrong room to the room that they belong to. Mark each box with the room it will go to in the new space and what types of items are packed. If you don’t have the same number of rooms in the new home, consider that as you label your boxes. Unpacking is much easier the more organized you are during the packing process. 

Start by packing the rooms that don’t have as many daily use items in them. On our last move, I started with the garage. After that, the dining room and the living room. Then came the kitchen; I kept out a small number of dishes and utensils we would need before the move. I continued with the bathrooms and bedrooms in much the same way. I boxed up the items we weren’t using daily and labeled each box for where they would go in the new home and what types of things were inside. When we got to the new house, I put papers on the doors saying which room was which, so the movers knew exactly where the boxes should go. It made our move a much smoother process.

-Julianna Poplin at The Simplicity Habit 

Now you are ready for your big day! Follow these tips (and to shave off tons of time, consider hiring a professional mover) to have a way less stressful move.

Can Movers Help You With Other Stuff Besides Moving?

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If you thought moving companies do nothing but put all your stuff on a big truck, you’d be right—if you were living sometime in the distant past.

Today’s moving companies are constantly expanding their range of services and offering them all à la carte. That half-job or heavy lifting you need help with? Sure, you can try begging and bribing your friends, or you can call up a few movers in your area. You might be surprised at what they can help you with.

So What Else, Exactly, Can Movers Help With?

More than you can probably imagine. Heck, you don’t even need to be moving to have them give you a hand! More and more, people are turning to moving companies for all kinds of tasks too big to tackle alone. Movers make great day laborers, for things like:

Clearing out your garage or basement

  • Having a couple of sets of hands to move stuff while you figure out whether it goes to the curb or your cousin’s house or back into the garage can save you an entire weekend (if your garage looks anything like mine)
  • This also applies to attics, sheds, or anywhere

Hauling individual furniture from Point A to Point B

  • From your house to the curb; from your bedroom to the basement; to that cousin’s house; to the municipal trash dump; to your local secondhand store or consignment shop

Moving everything out of the room you are repainting or remodeling 

  • And then moving it back when you are done

Hauling stuff to your home from the furniture store

  • Or from your second cousin’s house, or from the garage of the guy selling that big beautiful piano on craigslist

Movers can (and often will) also take care of those jobs tangential to a move:

Even if you’ve managed to tackle your entire move on your own, you may be left with a mountain of unwanted cardboard boxes and unusable packing paper that you just don’t want to deal with. Movers, however, see gold in those mountains. So try giving them a call.

Protip: Most movers tend to charge for a minimum of two hours of labor, due to scheduling their business hours. This is not by any means a hard and fast rule, but make sure you ask before you book your help.

Can I hire movers to JUST help me load and unload my U-Haul?

You betcha!

Renting a truck or a moving container and hiring moving labor for all the heavy lifting is a huge trend—and for good reason. You save a ton of money by renting your own truck, and you save your back by hiring movers.

À la carte movers often:

  • Bring all the equipment
  • Have all the knowledge necessary to do the job right
  • Pack stuff you need packed, wrap stuff you need to be wrapped
  • Load it all up safely and securely

You drive your U-Haul (or Penske or Budget), or have your portable container delivered, and a fresh crew of movers unloads everything at your new home. This is what we call a Hybrid Move. As far as moving goes, it’s the best of both worlds. And it’s what HireAHelper movers do best.

Get an instant quote for local TV mounting services.

Protip: If you are moving locally, your movers may be able to rent you moving blankets for a small fee. But if you are moving out of the area, you might be able to rent them from your rental truck company. You may, however, have to buy them. Just please don’t move without them!

Can my movers do my entire move?

Yes, of course. Your traditional Full Service moving company will handle the whole moving enchilada if that is what you want, including packing up your entire home, right down to your last box of biscuits. This is the easiest way to move. It is also by far the most expensive.

Movers Know Best

Of course, we can’t tell you what’s best for you. But we can say with total confidence that movers know how to best handle your stuff. Whether it’s a single item job or a few pieces of heavy furniture; whether you’re moving one room or one door down or one hundred miles away; whether you need loading help, unloading help, or both, hiring moving labor is the best and most economical way to make sure your belongings are taken care of.

If you’re not sure what to do, that’s cool. Calling a mover and asking a few questions costs nothing. And it could end up saving you a lot.


Illustrations by Rob Wadleigh

6 Reasons Why Planning Your Summer Move in the Winter Saves You Money

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My wife thought I was nuts. It was only the end of February, but I was already hauling in piles of used boxes so I could start planning my move. “We’re not moving until the end of June!” she cried, visions in her head of sleeping on the floor between stacks of cardboard boxes, I guess.

I told her I knew what I was doing and disappeared into the basement. And in fact, I did.

There are plenty of understandable reasons not to start planning your move four months ahead of time. But those reasons don’t seem so smart when you suddenly realize you’re moving in three days. 

If you’re looking to move sometime between Memorial Day and Labor Day (along with about 20 million other people) you have even more reason to get a jump-start on things. These are the most practical reasons why.

You can use extra time to do much-needed homework

There is one major reason people end up with crappy movers – or in some cases end up getting scammed by people posing as movers: They didn’t do their homework before hiring them.

What does “homework” mean?

  • Find and read real reviews on your local moving company (here’s an example from San Antonio)
  • Look up a moving company’s Better Business Bureau rating
  • Research if a mover is a legally registered transporter of household goods

Particularly if you are moving in the summer (seriously, literally millions and millions of people move between June and August), you want to give yourself time not only to find the right movers – i.e., movers who will treat you right – but you don’t want to miss out on hiring the movers that would have been perfect for you because somebody beat you to it. If you think hiring movers could be expensive, you should see how much hiring bad movers could end up costing you …

You might love our:

Moving Cost Calculator

If the quote from your movers felt expensive …
Make sure it lines up with the costs reported by other Americans.

And true, you may not know several months in advance exactly what day you’ll be moving. But don’t wait until a week before you’ve written “Moving!” on your calendar to start doing your homework. Get on it!

Plan your sales-rep walk-through before everyone else does

As the summer approaches, moving company sales representatives are just as busy as movers. Sometimes they’re even busier. But having a grasp of what you need ahead of time will prevent from your two-hour move turning into a six-hour one.

Conventional wisdom says you should get at least three in-home estimates if you want an estimate you can be fairly confident in. If you wanted to be absolutely thorough by price and quality, you not only need to find three solid moving companies, you need to find times that work for their three sales reps and for you. The closer you are to move day, the busier you will be. The closer it is to summer the busier they will be.

The good thing is, you don’t have to know when you’re moving to get your estimate.

You do, however, have to know what you will be moving. Of course, you can make some changes down the road if need be. Just be sure to communicate these changes ahead of time, not on move day!

Protip: Your sales rep might notice things you wouldn’t even think about, like the fact that the big office desk you assembled in the spare room isn’t going to fit out the door, or that your massive fish tank will probably need to be crated.

Having the luxury of time to get these unexpected extras taken care of may prove to be a lifesaver.

You’ll create a rapport with your mover

If you want to be efficient, you don’t want a bunch of perplexed strangers showing up on moving day.

While you won’t have much to worry about if you hire movers through HireAHelper (after 70,000 5-star reviews, we can say things like that), getting to know each other before the actual move day creates a good vibe for both parties. More than this, having time to ask questions and bring up concerns helps your movers prepare for the job ahead. 

By the same token, you can expect your movers to be as busy as you are in the lead-up to your move. Say hello, let them know what you need, let them know you appreciate it, and then step back and let them do their thing. 

You might get a better rate

We can’t absolutely guarantee that you’ll end up paying more if you hire your movers in the middle of May rather than the middle of March, but we are dead-certain you won’t save yourself any money by waiting until the last minute to book your movers. Unless of course the only movers left available are sketchy guys with a string of bad reviews. 

If you’re a couple months ahead of the game you’ll likely also get a much better deal on your rental truck. And your chances of nailing down the right size truck for your move also goes way up. (If you do find yourself having trouble scoring a rental truck check the tips we offer in this post.)

See prices for movers by the hour – instantly.

Read real customer reviews.

Easily book your help online.

 

You’ll avoid those sticky last-minute expenses

As move day approaches you’ll be going absolutely nuts tackling a thousand last-minute tasks, from canceling utilities to meeting with your landlord/realtor, to cleaning your apartment well enough to get your deposit back to getting all that non-perishable food to the soup kitchen. It will be in these final frenzied hours and days that you’ll be glad you got a three-month head start.

You can pace (and pay for) your packing little by little

Even if you book your movers (and your rental truck) early, if you have a decent amount of stuff and you’re moving a fair distance, you’re going to have to shell out a good chunk of change for

That’s simply the nature of the beast.

Protip: But while there may be nothing you can do about how far you have to move, you just might feel extra motivated to lighten your load by getting rid of all the stuff you know you don’t really need. (You might also feel a sudden urge to save some bucks by packing up the entire house yourself. Both are easier when you have a bigger window to work in.)

We do guarantee, by the way, that once you start packing, you’ll realize that you have about three times as much stuff as you thought and it’s going to take you quadruple the time.

Yep, if you’re like me, you’ll likely be so tired that you’ll have no problem sleeping on the floor between those stacks of cardboard boxes. But just to be safe, pack your bed last.

Bubble Wrap 101: Protips, What It Doesn’t Work With, and Solid Alternatives

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For keeping your most valuable, most expensive stuff protected when you move, it may seem like there’s nothing better than bubble wrap. But we’ll let you in on a little secret. 

Movers very rarely – if ever – use the stuff.

Not because it doesn’t work. It does. But the pros know, all those little bubbles add up to some bulky and relatively expensive bit of cushioning. Packing paper, used correctly, will serve most any packing purpose and save you both space and money.

Still, you may be more comfortable enveloping your flat screen TV, your electronics, your stemware and your china in bubble wrap. That’s totally understandable. So if you decide to go this route, here are a few things to keep in mind.

Using Bubble Wrap: 5 Quick Tips

  1. Put a layer of packing paper between your TV and that bubble wrap. Plastic can leave marks on your screen, particularly in extreme temperatures. This goes for anything you wrap in bubbles. For items with sharp edges or corners, some extra paper can help keep those sharp areas from poking right through the plastic.
  2. Wrap your items with the bubbles facing inward for better protection against exterior pressure and accidental impact. The flat side is easier to write on (in case you want to be able to identify each item quickly) and will hold the tape in place much more effectively.
  3. Don’t bank on one layer of bubble wrap. Two layers of small bubble sheeting might be enough for a piece of stemware, though this would be in addition to packing them with plenty of packing paper and, for extra peace of mind, individual cells inside your cardboard box. If you are using the stuff with the bigger bubbles for heavier items like a large framed mirror or your CPU, one layer may suffice – but again, only in addition to some crumpled packing paper for extra cushioning on all sides.
  4. Keep that bubble wrap firmly in place by taping not just along the edges, but all the way around the item. You splurged on that bubble wrap, don’t start skimping on the tape!
  5. Have a pair of scissors on hand when you are unpacking. It would be a real bummer to break something – or drop and break something – while trying to tear that bubble wrap off using only your hands. 

You might love our:

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What to Pack in Bubble Wrap

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Valuable items. Fragile items. Heavy and hard-to-replace items. If you’re staring at something and you can’t decide whether to bubble wrap it, err on the side of caution and wrap it.

Specifically, you’ll want to consider bubble wrap for:

  • Large picture frames and mirrors
  • Flat screen TVs
  • Glass tabletops and shelving
  • Electronics and computers
  • Stemware and fine china
  • Fragile decorative items

Remember, bubble wrap alone will not do the trick. Even surrounded by two or three layers of air pockets, the things on this list will still need to be packed firmly in cardboard cartons with enough crumpled packing paper on all sides to keep them from shifting and bouncing in transit while keeping them safe from exterior impact.

After the bubble wrapping is done, use the right kind of box.

There’s no point in being safe if you use the wrong box for your stuff. Finish the job right by packing each bubble-wrapped item properly, surrounded by plenty of crumpled packing paper. Moving boxes come in specific shapes and sizes for your items, use accordingly.

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Mirror Cartons

Picture frames, mirrors, glass shelves and flat-screen TVs go in mirror cartons – sets of two, if not four pieces that you can use to form a custom-sized box.

Double-Walled Dish Pack Cartons

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Electronics and computer components are best protected when packed in double-walled dish pack cartons, the same boxes we use for dishes, plates and glasses. And yes! This includes your china and stemware. Fragile decorative items like statuettes and ceramics can still be packed in medium (3 cubic foot) boxes, provided they are cushioned well and the boxes are clearly marked to minimize the chances of someone putting a box of books on top.

Cardboard Cells

A note about stemware: Nothing gets broken more often than this stuff. Wrapping each piece well is crucial, but so is packing it all correctly into your dish pack as the items on the bottom will have to support the weight of everything else in there.

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The best thing to do is get your hands on some of those cardboard cells, which not only keep your wine glasses from knocking against each other but offer an appreciable amount of vertical support, keeping all the weight of those glasses off the ones at the bottom of the box.

If you can’t find any cardboard cells, don’t despair! A thick layer of crumpled packing paper on the bottom of your dish pack and another layer of crumpled paper on top of each successive tier of firmly-packed stemware is what the pros use to keep everything safe. If you aren’t comfortable with that, line your entire dish pack with bubble wrap and put a couple of sheets in between your tiers of glasses. This isn’t the most cost-efficient way to pack your stemware, but it beats a box full of expensive shards of glass.

Alternatives

If not bubble wrap, then what? As stated earlier, packing paper is the standard. However, towels, crumpled newspaper, or virtually anything form-fitting, sturdy and that’s plenty soft can often do the trick for cheaper. Sound too simple? It really is. As long as you pad your items in a balanced way, it doesn’t need to be as expensive as bubble wrap. Just as long as “this one, extra towel” isn’t the only thing keeping your priceless vase safe. Check the moving supplies section at your local hardware store for bubble wrap alternatives.

A Note on Packing Peanuts

bubble wrapYou may like the idea of those Styrofoam nuggets, but in general, they are bulky, costly, and non-biodegradable. The eco-friendly alternative cornstarch peanuts are even more expensive and don’t make for a very satisfying snack, no matter how hungry you are at the end of your move. Plus, they end up getting scattered all over the floor and clinging to your clothes. In short, use (and eat) them if you like, but I don’t recommend them.


Admit it. It’s hard to resist popping those plastic bubbles once you’re done with that bubble wrap. But think for a moment how easy it is to pop them – and how much all the boxes you are packing must weigh.

Keep this in mind when you are packing up all those valuable, expensive, fragile items. On its own, a sheet of bubble wrap can’t adequately protect your stuff. You’re going to need plenty of packing paper (or towels or clothes) in a pinch. Pack those items firmly in the center of your box, protected on all sides.

And really, save yourself a headache (and maybe the stomachache) and stay away from those peanuts!

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